Scuba Diving Equipment Guide 2025 – What You Really Need (and How Not to Break the Bank)

1 – Diving mask: if it leaks, nothing else matters

Your mask is probably the most personal piece of scuba equipment. Every face is different – that’s why the same mask can be perfect on one diver and a nightmare on another.

Dragon Dive tips:

• Try before you buy. Put the mask on without the strap, inhale slightly through your nose and look down: if it holds without using your hands, it’s a good start.
• Low-volume masks (often freediving style) are trendy and easy to clear, but can press painfully on the eyebrows on some faces. If it hurts → not your mask.
• Ignore the myth that “a good mask never lets water in”. A bit of water in the mask is normal – learning to clear it is part of diving.
• Make sure you can easily pinch your nose for the Valsalva equalisation technique.
• Anti-fog coatings and films can help, but proper prepping (toothpaste, baby shampoo, or anti-fog drops) is still key.

Once you find a model that fits you well, stick to that brand/model. At Dragon Dive, we see many divers switching masks constantly when they really just need one good fit and a bit of practice.

2 – Wetsuit: comfort, warmth and longer dives

Many new divers do a first try dive in warm tropical water and think they “don’t get cold”. Then they start doing 3 dives a day in Komodo and suddenly a 3 mm feels very thin…

Water conducts heat away from your body up to 25 times faster than air. The more often you dive, the easier you get cold – that’s why instructors in Komodo happily wear 10–12 mm of neoprene or combinations.

Simple temperature guide:

• 3 mm wetsuit → > 27–28 °C
• 5 mm wetsuit → ~23–26 °C
• 7 mm wetsuit → ~17–22 °C
• 7 mm semi-dry → ~14–16 °C
• Drysuit → < 14 °C

For most travelling divers we recommend:

• One 5 mm full wetsuit (your “do-everything” suit).
• Plus a 5/3 mm hooded vest you can layer underneath when needed.

Unless you only dive cold water at home, forget 7–12 mm as your first suit – they’re bulky, heavy to travel with and overkill for most tropical trips.

Want to go deeper into this topic? Have a look at our dedicated article on choosing a scuba diving wetsuit (and come test different thicknesses with us in Komodo).

3 – Fins: your engine underwater

Fins turn your legs into an efficient propulsion system. They come in two main types:

• Full-foot fins – lighter and usually cheaper, great for warm water and travel.
• Open-heel fins + booties – warmer, protect your feet during shore entries, more versatile but bulkier to pack.

For travel, full-foot fins are attractive, but don’t forget you’ll need neoprene socks to avoid blisters and cuts. Open-heel fins with booties are great if you also dive colder water or do a lot of shore entries.

Fortunately, some models can be worn with or without booties. At Dragon Dive, we like compact yet robust models such as the Mares Avanti Pure – perfect for travel and strong enough for Komodo currents.

As your technique improves, consider stiffer blades (RK3, Avanti Quattro, etc.) for better control in current and more precise finning.

4 – Dive computer: your personal underwater co-pilot

A dive computer tracks your depth and time and calculates how much no-decompression time you have left, as well as recommended ascent rates and safety stops. In other words: it helps you avoid decompression sickness within recreational limits.

Thanks to the rise of smartwatches, many entry-level dive computers have become more affordable. Even basic models now often include:

• Nitrox mode (a must if you plan to do more diving or a PADI Enriched Air course).
• Clear displays, sometimes even colour screens (e.g. Aqualung i330R).
• Audible and visual alarms for ascent rate and no-deco limits.

Many dive centres now require each diver to have their own computer. At Dragon Dive, we strongly encourage it for all our PADI courses in Komodo and fun dives.

For travel, we love simple, robust models like the Mares Puck Pro or entry-level Aqualung units. For techy or multi-sport divers, the Garmin Descent Mk2 is a great all-round watch, and for serious divers who want the top of the top, Shearwater computers are the current benchmark.

5 – BCD: your buoyancy control device (and underwater comfort)

When you’re ready to buy your own BCD, you’re officially taking your diving to the next level. While prices haven’t dropped much, comfort, durability and travel-friendliness have improved a lot.

Main types of BCD for recreational diving:

• Jacket BCDs – inflate around your body, common in rentals and entry-level courses.
• Back-inflate / wing BCDs – the air cell is on your back, giving better horizontal trim and a cleaner front.

Most people learn in jackets, but for your personal BCD, we strongly recommend back-inflate or “donut/peanut” style. These help you achieve a hydrodynamic, horizontal position, which is key in currents like Komodo.

Travel-focused wings are now lighter and more compact than ever. Brands like Tecline are well-known for good donut / peanut BCDs. At Dragon Dive, we love simple, robust back-inflate set-ups for our guides and instructors.

6 – Regulator: your life-support system

Once you own your own regulator set (first stage, primary, octopus, SPG), you’re a fully independent diver. This is the most technical piece of your kit – and the one you should never compromise on.

What to look at:

• Water temperature rating: some lightweight travel regs are not designed for < 14 °C.
• Connection type: DIN vs Yoke.
• Balanced first stage for smoother breathing and performance at depth.

In many parts of Europe, DIN is the norm. In America, Mexico, South East Asia and Japan, you’ll mostly find Yoke valves. Our suggestion for a travel diver: buy a Yoke regulator with a balanced first stage. If you really love DIN, use a screw-on Yoke adaptor when needed – but be aware it adds bulk and your head can bump into it.

Lighter travel regulators are often more affordable, but again: check whether they’re suitable for cold water diving at home if that’s your plan.

Dragon Dive team favourites: Aqualung Legend, Scubapro MK25-based sets, and Apeks regulators for their reliability and service network.